"When we made The Sound of Music, the crew thought it would be a flop." Georg Steinitz, the film’s assistant director, was reminiscing with me at the Café Bazar in Salzburg. “It was too corny, too far from reality.”
Sure, the Rodgers & Hammerstein Broadway show had been a hit, but no one imagined that the cinema version would win five Oscars and become one of the world’s best-loved movies. On the 50th anniversary of its release in the US, celebrated today, The Sound of Music will have grossed more money than any musical in history. And millions of fans still dream of making a pilgrimage to Salzburg, where it was shot.
I have always loved the city for its fine old buildings, medieval streets, art museums and Mozart connections, not forgetting the coffee and cake. But on my most recent visit, I was following in the singing and dancing footsteps of Julie Andrews, Christopher Plummer and those seven chirpy children, half a century ago.
The lake in front of Schloss Leopoldskron, where boat scenes from the film were shot (Photo: Alamy)
For director Robert Wise, Salzburg was one big open-air set. From the horse fountain on the Residenz Square to the Mozartsteg footbridge across the River Salzach, the city’s sights played important parts in the film. A starring role went to the formal Mirabell Gardens for the climax of the “Do-Re-Mi” sequence. Locals are long used to groups of tourists prancing past the fountains, patting a stone gnome on the head and hopping up and down the stone steps.
A dab hand at editing, Robert Wise not only mixed and matched Austria and Hollywood, he also juggled locations in and around Salzburg. To separate fact from cinematic fiction, I joined a Sound of Music tour. Peter, our laconic guide, explained that Captain von Trapp’s home was a combination of two different mansions. First up was Schloss Frohnburg, now a music school. We peered at its wrought-iron gates and stern yellow façade, impressive enough to daunt any prospective governess, let alone a poor convent girl. But the make-believe novice in the film could sing, and with a warble of I Have Confidence Julie Andrews marched up to that very front door.
A few miles away is Schloss Leopoldskron. “Do you remember when Maria and the children fell out of the boat?” Peter prompted. “That scene was right here on the lake; little Gretl almost drowned during one take.” Apparently, he added, the actress who played the part, Kym Karath, has a fear of water to this day. In the gardens stood the gazebo, where Liesl trilled, “I am 16 going on 17” and had her first kiss. So many tourists wanted to photograph the pavilion that it was moved to the more spacious park of Schloss Hellbrunn, yet another palace – and our next stop.
When we arrived at the gazebo, we were not alone. Giggling aficionados, who hoped to create 15 seconds of YouTube fame, were tugging at the door. It remained locked. “It’s closed because an overenthusiastic 80-year-old American woman danced on the benches, fell off and broke her hip,” Peter said. But, with advance notice, the door can be opened for marriage proposals. “So far, the bride-to-be has always been surprised – and has always said 'Yes’!”
Our final destination was the lakeside resort of Mondsee, where Maria walked down the long aisle of the baroque St Michael’s basilica to marry the Captain. Sound of Music groupies from around the world come here to say “I do”. “I recently blessed a couple who flew all the way from Minnesota, in the USA,” the marriage registrar told me. “There were just seven in the wedding party; the church holds 500.”
Even after 50 years, the film continues to work its magic. For devotees, it is Austria. From the sunny alpine meadows, where Julie Andrews twirled, to Salzburg itself, with its castle and churches, the scenery still looks fabulous. It all adds up to the best tourism commercial ever.
Yet very few Austrians have ever seen The Sound of Music. For a start, 20 years after the war, memories of the Nazi period were uncomfortable. When the city fathers banned the use of swastika-emblazoned banners for the production, the director threatened to use real newsreel footage instead. The compromise was the handful of flags seen in the film.
Maria walked down the aisle at St Michael’s, Mondsee (Photo: Alamy)
More prosaically, Austrians are bemused by the cultural curiosities, such as “schnitzel with noodles”. How could that be a “favourite thing” when the traditional accompaniment is potatoes?
And then there is the song Edelweiss. Before filming the Trapp family’s performance at the festival, assistant director Georg Steinitz had to ensure that the audience joined in on cue. “Robert Wise was keen to get the cameras rolling,” he said, “but I told him that they had to learn the words.” Wise was puzzled: “That shouldn’t take long. After all, it is your national anthem!” Was the director joking? Or was he seduced by Rodgers & Hammerstein’s folksy melody and lyrics? Rumour has it that the rest of the world is convinced that Austrians should stand to attention for “Bless my homeland forever…”
So far, I had observed Salzburg and its surroundings as if through the lens of a camera. But there is another dimension to the story, and that is why I went back to the city to climb the steep path to Nonnberg Abbey. Benedictines still live in this 1,300-year-old nunnery, whose red onion dome is a local landmark. Stepping through the heavy chapel door to hear Mass was like travelling back to the Middle Ages.
In the Twenties, a young postulant did live here. Then she was sent to be a governess to a widower, who had seven children. That was the real Maria and she did marry one Captain von Trapp. The family performed as a singing group at the Salzburg Festival and they did escape from the Nazis. Best of all, their former home in Aigen, 10 minutes from the city centre, has been converted into a bed-and-breakfast.
The Mirabell Gardens (Photo: Alamy)
Set in a vast walled garden, this comfortable 19th-century manor house has plain furnishings, bedrooms named for family members and lots of sepia photos. “Many guests request the Liesl Room,” Christopher Unterkofler told me, as he showed me around the Villa Trapp. “But there is no such room, because she didn’t exist. The scriptwriters simplified the story and changed some names.” Above the stairs, a group portrait of the seven real children provides the proof: the eldest is a bloke! Never mind. For a Japanese family, staying here was a 40-year-old dream come true.
“The breakfast room has the most significance,” Herr Unterkofler whispered, as we joined guests munching their morning muesli. After the von Trapps lost their money in the Thirties, they took in boarders, priests from the neighbouring mission. “Services were held in this room and the family attended. One day, a Father Wasner took Mass. He was a musician as well as a priest,” Unterkofler told me. “When he heard the seven children sing, he offered to become their director, coached them for the Salzburg Folk Festival – and the rest is history!”
Getting there
Airlines with direct flights to Salzburg from the UK include British Airways (ba.com); easyJet (easyjet.com); Ryanair (ryanair.com); and Thomas Cook (thomascookairlines.com). From the airport to town, taxis cost €15 (£11), the No 2 bus €2 (£1.50). Alternatively, Inghams (01483 791111; inghams.co.uk) offers three-night packages including accommodation at the Hotel Hofwirt from £474 (based on two sharing), flight from Gatwick to Salzburg, transfers and breakfast.
Staying there
The Villa Trapp has 15 rooms, including singles. Packages include a Sound of Music tour (b&b from £55 for two; 0043 662 630860; villa-trapp.cc).
Eating out
Just 10 minutes’ walk from the Villa Trapp, the Gasthof Schloss Aigen offers sophisticated, modern Austrian cooking using locally sourced produce. Cheerful traditional setting; imaginative vegetarian dishes; well-priced wines (three-course gourmet menu €47/£35; 0043 662 621284; schloss-aigen.at).
'The Sound of Music’ is often performed at the Salzburg Marionette Theatre
Wedding bells
In the village of Mondsee, a wedding planner can arrange a one-stop service for, the ceremony at St Michael’s basilica, the flowers, cake, reception and hotel. See heiratenimmondseeland.at.
Getting around
The 72-hour Salzburg Card (€37/£28; salzburg.info) includes free admission to museums, the funicular, public transport.
'Sound of Music’ connections
The four-hour Panorama Sound of Music tour takes in most of the highlights (€40/£30; panoramatours.com/en); the century-old Salzburg Marionette Theatre regularly performs The Sound of Music in English (from €20/£15; marionetten.at).
The Sound of Salzburg Dinner Show combines songs from the film with a three-course meal (€54/£40; soundofsalzburg.info).
At the Villa Trapp, non-guests can book a 45-minute guided tour (€15/£11; villa-trapp.cc). Nonnberg Abbey services are at 5.15pm (Saturday 5pm; earlier on religious holidays).
Uniworld (0800 988 5867; titantravel.co.uk/uniworld) offers an eight-day Enchanting Danube cruise from Budapest to Passau between April and November 2015. Select sailings include a concert by Elisabeth Von Trapp, granddaughter of Maria and the Baron, at the Mirabell Palace chapel in Salzburg. She will host the July 26 and August 2 departures. From £1,749pp with flights.
Shopping
Shop where the von Trapps did – and still do. On the Residenzplatz, Jahn-Markl (jahn-markl.at) has been making traditional leather clothing since 1408; Heimatwerk (sbg.heimatwerk.at) dirndls and more. For antique furniture and carved wood, drop by Gertraud Lackner (2 Badergasse; woodart.at), now run by the fourth generation of the family.
Information
salzburg.info; austria.info/uk.
Discover our range of affordable offers to Austria with the Telegraph Travel Collection, including a chance to attend the Salzburg Summer Music Festival.
FAQs
The Sound of Music: The hills are alive in Salzburg? ›
Salzburg, Austria, is the site of the actual story behind “The Sound of Music.” Portions of “The Sound of Music” were filmed in Salzburg's Mirabell Palace Garden, including the “Do-Re-Mi” scene.
Are the mountains in The Sound of Music real? ›The Sound of Music Locations in Salzburger Land
The Untersberg mountain can be seen twice throughout the film. It was here that the opening scenes and closing scene, in which the Trapp family escape Nazi-occupied Austria, were filmed.
About Palace Leopold: Beautifully reflecting over a small lake, Palace Leopold (Schloss Leopoldskron) served as the primary filming location in Salzburg for all of the lake terrace scenes at the Von Trapp family home in The Sound of Music movie.
What is happening in Austria during the time The Sound of Music takes place? ›The musical is based on the real-life struggles of Georg von Trapp, as seen through the eyes of his nanny and eventual wife, Maria von Trapp, when the Nazis invaded Austria.
How do Austrians feel about The Sound of Music? ›Many Austrian have never seen or heard of it
The Austrians resented the historical inaccuracies depicting their heritage, while the Germans found the Nazi theme troubling so soon after WWII.
As daughter Maria said in a 2003 interview printed in Opera News, "We did tell people that we were going to America to sing. And we did not climb over mountains with all our heavy suitcases and instruments. We left by train, pretending nothing." The von Trapps traveled to Italy, not Switzerland.
Where is the location of the hills are alive with The Sound of Music? ›Salzburg, Austria, is the site of the actual story behind “The Sound of Music.” Portions of “The Sound of Music” were filmed in Salzburg's Mirabell Palace Garden, including the “Do-Re-Mi” scene.
Where was the Hills Are Alive scene filmed? ›It also has spawned a series of specialized tours in the city of Salzburg, Austria. This is the town where the von Trapp family lived and where most of the 1965 movie was shot. The lure of these locations is so appealing that several different companies run bus tours of related sites.
Is it worth visiting Salzburg? ›Salzburg is a beautiful, vibrant city, a Unesco World Heritage Site with an astonishingly rich cultural heritage.
What mountain did the von Trapp family climb? ›News Von Trapps: Climb Ev'ry Mountain -- But Don't Hunt According to a story in the Associated Press, for the first time in its 35-year history, the Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe, VT, has banned hunting on the 1,100 acres surrounding the resort.
Why do Austrians not watch The Sound of Music? ›
Austrians reportedly didn't appreciate The Sound of Music's Broadway show tunes representing themselves as Austrian folk songs (namely Edelweiss). They also disapproved of the film's costuming, as it didn't reflect traditional Austrian style.
What language is spoken in Austria? ›German is the official language of Austria and an important prerequisite for participating in the working, economic and social life of the country. Croatian, Slovenian and Hungarian are recognised as official languages of autonomous population groups in some regions.
What happened to the Von Trapp property in Austria? ›After a devastating fire in 1980, the original structure was replaced by the new Trapp Family Lodge, a striking, 96-room alpine lodge situated on 2,600 acres offering magnificent indoor and outdoor resort amenities. The entire property is owned and operated by the von Trapp family.
Are Austrians polite? ›Generally speaking, Austrian etiquette and society follows the norms of Germany. This means that Austrians are polite, formal, and have a level of reserve. They also follow many of the same languages, religions, and traditions as Germany. Catholicism is an integral part of Austrian society.
What is the mentality of Austrians? ›It is commonly known that Austrian people are typically conservative and value tradition, as well as family, fairness, the environment, and a good work-life balance. As with any country, there is much to learn about the people and culture before moving there and starting a new chapter.
What accent do Austrians have? ›The dialect of German spoken in Austria, except in the west, is Bavarian, sometimes called Austro-Bavarian. About seven million people speak Bavarian in Austria. A Middle Bavarian subdialect is spoken chiefly in Ober- and Niederösterreich as well as in Vienna.
Why did the von Trapps not return to Austria? ›In 1938, Hitler entered Austria and the von Trapps decided to save their spiritual rather than their material wealth and left their large estate outside of Salzburg for the United States.
Did the von Trapps ever get their house back in Austria? ›Georg von Trapp and his children moved there in 1924 following the death of his first wife. After the war, a religious group, the Catholic Missionaries of the Precious Blood, bought the property from the Von Trapps, who had had their ownership restored after the Nazis were defeated.
Why did Rolf betray the von Trapps? ›Rolf Gruber, or better known as Rolf, is the central antagonist of the 1959 musical The Sound of Music, and its 1965 film adaptation of the same name. He was an Austrian delivery boy who fell in love with Liesl Von Trapp until he betrayed her and her family to serve for Hans Zeller and the Nazi Party.
Can you visit The Sound of Music Hill? ›This is one of two meadows used in the filming of the Sound of Music but the only one you can visit. The other meadow (Mehlweg) which was used in the opening scenes of the film is in nearby Marktschellenberg, Germany but was closed to the public in 2010.
What town in Austria was The Sound of Music filmed? ›
Fans agree: Salzburg is THE “Sound of Music” city! Not only did the real Trapp family once live here, this movie classic was also filmed in and around the city. Roam in the footsteps of Maria von Trapp and Julie Andrews!
Where did the Von Trapps cross the Alps? ›THE VON TRAPP FAMILY DID NOT CROSS THE ALPS TO ESCAPE THE NAZIS. During the climactic scene of the show, the von Trapp family will flee Salzburg, Austria by hiking over the surrounding mountains.
What parts of The Hills was real? ›Adam DiVello, Creator and Executive Producer
"All of the situations were real situations. If it was scripted, I would've written even better storylines. We were doing a lot of episodes about Audrina and [her on-again, off-again boyfriend] Justin Bobby ... tons of repeated storylines.
Principal photography for The Hills Have Eyes began in October 1976. The film was shot in Victorville, California in the Mojave Desert using 16 mm film on cameras that were borrowed from a Californian pornographic filmmaker.
What lake is The Sound of Music in Salzburg? ›Mondsee Lake
Mondsee is one of the many amazing lakes you can easily visit near Salzburg. In fact, it is one of the many seen in aerial shots during the opening scenes of The Sound of Music. As you head toward Mondsee Lake from the church, you will see another iconic, though low-key spot from the movie.
In general, Salzburg can be a better choice for Sound of Music fans and for those looking for a compact and digestible old town to visit. On the other hand, Vienna is great for visitors looking for a big, bustling and diverse city with a wealth of things to see and do.
Which is prettier Salzburg or Vienna? ›Salzburg is hands down 'better looking' than Vienna - both from an architectural standpoint, and a natural one. If you have an affinity towards music, then you should visit Salzburg because of its ties with The Sound of Music and Mozart.
What is the best month to visit Salzburg? ›If you're looking for perfect weather and lots of tourists, high season (June–August and December) is your best bet. The low season (January–March) is great for seeing Salzburg like a local, and for budget prices. The shoulder seasons combine the best of both worlds.
Can you visit Sound of Music House? ›Yes, it is possible to visit the gazebo from The Sound of Music and see it close up. It was originally located on the grounds of Leopoldskron Palace during filming. To allow fans to see the famous gazebo up close, it was later relocated to the gardens around Hellbrunn Palace where it can still be found today.
Where is Captain von Trapp buried? ›Can you stay in The Sound of Music House? ›
Reside in one of the movie locations of "The Sound of Music"
You will overnight in the comfortable rooms of Meierhof and can enjoy breakfast buffet whether at the Marble Hall or the ballroom of the palace. During the 4-hour Original Sound of Music Tour® you will visit most of the locations where the movie was made.
Austrian German is almost the same as Standard German. But, spoken Austrian German has lots of different dialects, some of which are easier to understand than others. Many of the differences involve vocabulary and expressions.
Do most Austrians know English? ›Just above 40% of people in Austria speak English, which is more or less on par with the average in European countries. English is therefore the second most spoken language in the country, followed by French, which roughly 7% of Austrians speak. Less than 1% of Austria's population calls English their mother tongue.
What do Germans think of The Sound of Music? ›Most Germans haven't even heard of it. One of the reasons might be that there already was a movie about the Trapp family, produced in Germany in 1956 featuring Nazis and all. It was such a big hit that they shot a sequel in 1958. So when The Sound of Music came out in 1965, most Germans probably weren't interested.
How do you greet someone in Austria? ›The formal greeting is Guten Tag or Grüß Gott (literally translates to ‚Greet God'). Knowing is better to say Grüß Sie or Hallo. Friends greet each other by saying Grüß Sie, Hallo, Servus or for younger people simply Hi.
What is the main religion in Austria? ›Religions in Austria
As of December 2021, the number of catholics in Austria was 4.93 Million (55 %) and the number of protestants was 340,300 (3,8%).
Although Catholicism is the most dominant religion in Austria, the country recognizes many other Christian churches, too. This includes the Protestant, Greek Oriental, Serbian Orthodox, and Russian Orthodox churches.
Were Von Trapps wealthy in Austria? ›The von Trapps, however, were not as wealthy or as aristocratic as the movie made them out to be. In fact, Georg technically wasn't even a baron. He was possibly only just about a baronet if Austria hadn't abolished titles after World War I. The pavilion setting for the famous '16 going on 17′ song.
Can you visit the von Trapp House in Salzburg? ›They are exclusively furnished. In the past the Villa Trapp was not accessible to the public. Now you can sleep in the family's rooms and walk on their paths through the villa and the park. This stately building enjoys a quiet location close to the centre of Salzburg, surrounded by the city's largest private park.
How much of The Sound of Music is true? ›The story is largely historically inaccurate.
The Broadway musical — which later inspired the 1965 film — was based on the memoir "The Story of the Trapp Family Singers" by Maria von Trapp (née Kutschera). But the plot didn't always stay true to the source material.
What is the famous food in Austria? ›
No list of the most popular Austrian foods can ever be complete without wiener schnitzel, the national dish of Austria. A wiener schnitzel is a fried dish consisting of a thin, breaded fried cutlet.
What time do Austrians eat dinner? ›Austrians prefer an “early” dinner time
In France, dinner is usually eaten between 7pm and 9pm, and in Italy it's between 8pm and 10pm. But in Austria, most people sit down for dinner at around 6pm to 7pm – even when going out to a restaurant to eat.
Do not begin eating until all people have been served and the host has indicated it is time to start. The host will usually say “Guten Appetit” or “Mahlzeit”.
What do the Germans think of the Austrians? ›| Some Differences Between Austria and Germany Cultural and Other Comparisons | |
|---|---|
| GERMANY | AUSTRIA |
| Germans consider the Austrians amusing, charming and quaint. | Austrians consider the Germans humorless, arrogant and rigid. |
What is it really like to live in Austria? As an expat, you will discover a plethora of delights living in Austria. The beautiful alpine country offers clean alpine air, efficient public transport, high-quality healthcare, and education; not to mention numerous stunning destinations in which to spend your free time.
Do Austrians work a lot? ›Working hours in Austria
The normal working time for full-time employees generally amounts to 40 hours per week and eight hours per day in Austria. A weekly working time of 38.5 hours each week is specified in several collective agreements.
Griaß di – Hello there
Just as informal and frequently used among family and friends is Griaß di, which translates to hello or hello there. The plural to this is Griaß enk/Griaß eich. It's also a friendly way to say hello to fellow hikers you might meet on one of the many beautiful trails in Austria.
Historically, Austrians were regarded as ethnic Germans and viewed themselves as such. The Austrian lands (including Bohemia) were part of the Holy Roman Empire and the German Confederation until the Austro-Prussian War in 1866 which resulted in Prussia expelling the Austrian Empire from the Confederation.
What is the new name for Austria? ›The contemporary state was created in 1955, with the Austrian State Treaty, and is officially called the Republic of Austria (Republik Österreich).
Who actually sang Climb Every mountain in Sound of Music? ›Did the nun in Sound of Music really sing Climb Every mountain? ›
In the original Broadway production it was sung by Patricia Neway, in the original London production it was sung by Constance Shacklock, and in the original Australian production it was sung by Rosina Raisbeck. In the original stage play, the Mother Abbess sings the song at the end of the first act.
Was Sound of Music filmed in the Alps? ›The Sound of Music was filmed at various locations in and around Salzburg, including Leopoldskron Palace, Frohnburg Palace, the Mirabell Palace Gardens, the old town of Salzburg, the basilica in Mondsee, and many more. Some Salzburg locations were even reconstructed as sets in Hollywood, such as the cemetery at St.
What mountain plant is in sound of music? ›"Edelweiss" is a show tune from the 1959 Rodgers and Hammerstein musical The Sound of Music. It is named after the edelweiss, (Leontopodium nivale), a white flower found high in the Alps.
Did the von Trapps actually sing Edelweiss? ›The four siblings were recorded singing “Edelweiss,” one of the famous songs from composers Richard Rogers and Oscar Hammerstein II's 1959 musical. The 12 original von Trapp family members were all talented singers and gained recognition in their native Austria after World War I.
Did Captain von Trapp really sing? ›A number of listeners wrote in to point out that Christopher Plummer doesn't really sing in "The Sound of Music" - although, of course, he'd played Captain Von Trapp. And in a portion of the interview we didn't have time to air, Christopher Plummer told us the story. PLUMMER: They did for the long passages.
Was the singing dubbed in The Sound of Music? ›There was never a question that Julie Andrews could perform her own musical numbers in the film, but director Robert Wise was not as confident about some of the other actors. In fact, background singers were used to fill out the voices of the seven children and Peggy Wood's voice was dubbed by singer Margery McKay.
What happened to the Von Trapp house in Austria? ›The priests rented out the property in the 1990s and it became a hotel in 2008. Now, guests can stay in rooms that belonged to various members of the Von Trapp family and are labelled as such.
Why did the Von Trapp kids cry at dinner? ›Maria insists on saying grace, and she thanks the children for the "gift" they left in her pocket to make her feel so welcomed and at home. The captain has no idea what she's talking about, but the kids feel horribly guilty for their prank; they start crying.
Did the Von Trapp family ever return to Austria? ›In 2008, 70 years after fleeing the Nazis, Maria von Trapp returned to Austria to visit her former home at the age of 93. "I'm back home again," von Trapp told reporters in Salzburg Friday after spending several nights in her childhood house, which has been transformed into a hotel.
Is Salzburg in Austria or Germany? ›The fourth largest city in Austria, Salzburg is one of the country's most popular tourist destinations alongside Vienna. With spectacular Alpine landscapes, enchanting culture and a location just next to the German border, Salzburg makes for the perfect day trip from Munich.
In which Austrian city was The Sound of Music largely shot? ›
The Sound of Music gazebo at Hellbrunn Palace in Salzburg was moved here from its original location at Schloss Leopoldskron.
Where was the cemetery scene in Sound of Music filmed? ›The actual filming location was a set in Hollywood based on St. Peter's Graveyard—the oldest Christian cemetery in Austria—located near Nonnberg Abbey.